Konventionel bomuldsproduktion er meget skidt for miljøet, da der bruges store mængder gift og pesticider samt enorme mængder vand.
- Dyrkningen af bomuld, der optager 2,4 procent af klodens landbrugsjord, står for 16 procent af verdens forbrug af insektgifte og 10 procent af pesticidforbruget. Dermed er bomuld den mest sprøjtede afgrøde overhovedet.
- Hvert år udsættes 77 millioner bomuldsbønder for sprøjtegifte.
- Det kræver 3.400 liter vand og 1.300 liter at fremstille henholdsvis et kg ris og et kg hvede. Men der bruges hele 11.000 liter til at fremstille et kg bomuldstøj. Det svarer til et vandforbrug på næsten 1.500 liter for at producere en T-shirt. Og husk: bomuld dyrkes i dele af verden, hvor der ofte er stor vandmangel.
- Bomuldsproduktionen kan ikke følge med efterspørgslen. Derfor – og fordi vi vil have billigt tøj – blandes der flere og flere kunststoffer i bomulden og ulden. Hvilket ofte forkorter tøjets levetid og gør det sværere at genanvende stoffet.
Et rigtig gode alternativ til konventionel bomuld er derfor økologisk bomuld, der produceres uden pesticider og gift og med mindre vand.
GOTS
GOTS står for Global Organic Textile Standard og er et internationale anerkendt mærke for tøj, hvor materialet er økologisk og stofferne er produceret med miljømæssigt og socialt ansvar.
Kun tøj der består af mindst 70 procent økologiske fibre, kan blive GOTS-certificeret. Alle kemiske input som farvestof og tilsætningsstoffer, skal leve op til strenge miljømæssige kriterier.
GOTS er i dag det førende internationale økologiske certificeringsmærke inden for tekstilindustrien.
Med et GOTS-mærke, er varen certificeret økologisk og den er produceret og forædlet på en forsvarlig og miljømæssig hensigtsmæssig måde. Det gælder lige fra at den første økologiske såsæd bliver plantet og helt frem til at tekstilet er færdigforarbejdet.
Læs mere om GOTS-certificering.
“Environmental Criteria
- At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified
- All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability
- Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
- The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals
- Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
- Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited
- Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited
- Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted)
- All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges
- Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
- Packaging material must not contain PVC. Paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC
Technical Quality and Human Toxicity Criteria
- Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values)
- Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues
Sociale kriterier
Social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors and manufacturers. They must have a social compliance management with defined elements in place to ensure that the social criteria can be met. For adequate implementation and assessment of the following social criteria topics the listed applicable key conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO) have to be taken as the relevant basis for interpretation.
- Employment is freely chosen
C29 – Forced Labour Convention
C105 – Abolition of Forced Labour Convention
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
C87 – Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise Convention
C98 – Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention
C135 – Workers’ Representatives Convention
C154 – Collective Bargaining Convention
- Working conditions are safe and hygienic
C155 – Occupational Safety and Health Convention
- Child labour must not be used
C138 – Minimum Age Convention
C182 – Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention
- Living wages
C95 – Protection of Wages Convention
C131 – Minimum Wage Fixing Convention
- Working hours are not excessive
C1 – Hours of Work (Industry) Convention
C14 – Weekly Rest (Industry) Convention
C30 – Hours of Work (Commerce and Offices) Convention
C106 – Weekly Rest (Commerce and Offices) Convention
- No discrimination is practised
C100 – Equal Remuneration Convention
C111 – Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Convention
- Regular employment is provided
C158: Termination of Employment Convention
C175: Part-time Work Convention
C177: Homework Convention
C181 Private Employment Agencies Convention
- Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited
C29 – Forced Labour Convention
C105 – Abolition of Forced Labour Convention”
Informationer fra: global-standard.org
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